Sunday, October 21, 2007

Paris the City of Lights and Rugby Supporters

4 Blog updates in 2 days. Why aren't we out enjoying the sights you ask? And well you might, today is Sunday and we both have Euros burning holes in our pockets so decided after a late start to the day that we would travel by Metro to the large Paris shopping complexes of Printemps and LaFayette. Good plan you might think especially if you are expecting presents! Yes Bernie I am thinking about you!!! Anyway it was not to be because in true French style the shops ALL OF THEM are closed on Dimache so an alternative plan was hatched we would go to the Palace of Versailles using our train passes. Again another excellent plan was foiled because while the Metro seems to be back in full operation after the strike action of late last week the RER trains are on much reduced schedules. So blog updates and a drink in the sun was the final option.

This is our second long weekend in Paris and it is worth covering a few highlights none of which involve going to see any rugby unfortunately.

We are staying in a fairly average hotel in a great location with a few dozen other kiwis traveling like us and also on organised tours. They are a friendly bunch and good to share a drink with and a few "war" stories of our travels. Our hotel is located in an interesting neighbourhood right next to Gare L'Est on of the main train and metro stations. It is perfect to get around Paris.

Our first weekend we arrived by car with Michelle and Zane and dropped our car off early at the airport. Chris had covered over 3000 kms since we started out and wasn't that keen on driving in Paris, which is fair enough after having seen how mad the drivers are here.

On our first morning after meeting up with Mish and Zane and selling the semis tickets we wandered along the Champs Elyse and stopped for a coffee and juice. Warning to all traveller if it looks posh and the table clothes are real linen you are about to be ripped off!! However feeling flush after collecting cash for our tickets I decided the George V looked just the business for our morning coffee. Now we have not been converting our way around on this trip. In my view a pointless exercise but I made an exception here to show the size of the rip off. We consumed 3 espressos (those fabulously strong short coffees that we are both addicted to now) and 4 OJs Chris opting for a large glass and granted they were proper OJ but when the bill arrived for 47.50 Euro (or 95NZD) we thought they were taking the piss. It turns out that Chris OJ cost the equivalent of 28 NZD!! So thanks GV but we won't be going back anytime soon.

We travelled on the open deck bus tour and enjoyed the sights and have managed to do what most tourist do in Paris, the E Tower, the Arc, the Louvre and also take heaps of photos. We walked by the river, went to the famous and so beautiful Notre Dame and climbed the hundreds of steps to enjoy the view and visit Sacre Cour so we have done our bit for Paris tourism.

It is a beautiful city with amazing sights, the people watching is great and the roaming musicians who entertain with sax and accordion and guitar on the trains is good fun.

Apart from the sights though a highlight was discovering a tiny local bar close to where we are staying that had the most sublime jazz quartet playing last Sunday night. We are off to see if they are there again this week. It was a smoky and seedy little place that served cheap but very drinkable red wine and was a perfect place to end our week.

Yesterday the city was taken over by the English and SA rugby supporters. The English were the most obvious with painted faces, loud drunken behaviour and crazy costumes. They were drunk by lunchtime and extremely irritating to those of us who just wanted to forget the oval ball fiasco.

Interestingly haven't seen that many of the same group today, wonder why???

Tomorrow is our last day in France so we will shop and also have Moulin Rouge booked for tomorrow night. Then off on the Eurostar to Heathrow and LA for a bit of frivolous fun at Disneyland and of course more shopping........

The journey north

Lyon proved to be a very interesting place indeed for both culinary delights and the sights.After many hours driving like a Frenchman possessed, it was great to park the car and walk around for a bit. Lyon has, like many french cities, some magnificent old buildings dating back hundreds of years. This left us wondering if some of our wonderful buildings put up today, would still be around in 500 years or so. Personally I can't imagine tourists queuing to see the Michael Fowler Centre or Aotea Centre ( for you Aucklanders)hundreds of years from now and marveling at how well it has stood the test of time, world wars etc. cynical I know, but it is truly amazing to think how these massive structures were built without the technology we have today.
Enough whining, we walked into a huge cathedral (called St Georges) and started wandering aimlessly, as tourists do,checking out the stained glass and statues when it suddenly occurred to us there seemed to be lot of people in here. When the priest came out with the alter boys in tow, it became glaringly obvious mass was starting and these annoying & noisy tourists should shut up and join in or get out.We thought it prudent to exit quickly, though not so quietly as Annie's high heel boots on a marble floor was far from subtle.
Restaurants don't even think about opening till 7:30- 8pm so with an hour or so to kill we were able to browse the shops, retail shops start later and don't close till about 7:30pm. Even shopping in France is so bloody civilised.
We found a tiny restaurant that looked nice but could identify a single thing on the menu except escargot- and I really thought I should try these things. Normally we can pick certain words on a menu and get a fair idea what we were ordering, but in this case we threw caution to the wind.
Of course the waitress spoke less english than I did french, and I soldiered on ordering the escargot.The reply was a warning that they are very spicy, still I carried on. She was not wrong, these things were drowned in chilli and some sort oil & herb sauce, but with water in hand and a determination not to be a wuss, I ate all 12. Despite the chilli, the snails tasted like a handful of soil,had a strong "earthy" flavour and I wondered if maybe these ones were fresh from under the woodpile out the back!!
Main course proved more of a challenge when Annie asked what anduillette was the description was "sausage made of veal" and then drifted of into french. Sausages sounded great so we both got those.The veal was the outside bit- it was the inside that was interesting- put another way, cutting it open reminded me of my days working at the freezing works ( particularly the offal room). This was not veal.We both fought the gag reflex and ate a respectable amount,and when we got back to the hotel looked up our guide book to find we had just eaten sausages made of pork tripe and " other bits". Not sure on the other bits, but my instinct on the offal room were spot on.Some things just never quite leave you.
On the brighter side, it didn't kill me, so it can only make me stronger, wiser & able to write interesting blogs.
Next day we were on the final leg to Paris and the thought of driving in this manic city is too daunting, besides I am sick of driving (3000km+)and really wish to be a passenger for a while. We will return the mighty Peugeot back to its rightful owners (french people) at Charles De Gaulle Airport, and use the train from then on.
Lyon to Paris was big long toll road, and "Gloria"redeemed herself by taking us on the Paris ring road and straight to terminal 3 as promised, on time & without a hitch.